Beach Guide: Portals Vells & Caló del Mago
Portals Vells & Caló del Mago – Three Turquoise Coves in Palma’s Southwest
A short hop from Palma, the Portals Vells headland hides a trio of picture-book coves: the broader Portals Vells beach with a chiringuito, the smaller Platja del Rei, and the intimate Caló del Mago, long known as naturist-friendly. Pine shade, calm clear water and snorkelable rocks make this an easy day out when we want coves without a long drive. From Palma Cathedral it’s roughly 30 minutes by car (≈25 km via Ma-1 toward Calvià), then a narrow road into the pines and a short walk down to the sand.
📍 Location & Getting There
| From Palma | Time | Notes |
| Drive (Ma-1 → Magaluf/Sol de Mallorca → Portals Vells) | ~30 min | Narrow access road; limited parking fills early in summer. |
| Bus (to Magaluf/Sol de Mallorca, onward walk) | ~55–75 min | Feasible but not ideal with beach gear; check timings same day. |
| Taxi | ~€30–40 one-way | Good for small groups; arrange pickup spot in advance. |
| Nearby | — | Magaluf • Santa Ponça • Camp de Mar • Portals Nous • Puerto Portals |
🏖️ Beach Snapshot
Portals Vells is the “hub” cove with sand, shade and a simple beach bar; Platja del Rei is a quieter neighbour around the rocks; Caló del Mago is the smallest and most secluded, with natural ledges and a relaxed naturist vibe. Expect very clear water, sandy entries in the main bay, and rocky shelves that make the snorkelling pop on bright, still mornings. Yachts often anchor offshore—pretty, but give them space.
🧭 Practical Tips & Seasonality
- Arrive before 10:30 in July–August or come for golden-hour swims after 16:30.
- Wear water shoes for the rocky shoulders (best fish spotting there).
- Shade sits deepest under the pines; bring a mat or compact umbrella on windless days.
- Weekdays feel local; weekends draw Palma day-trippers.
🏛️ Things to Do at Portals Vells & Caló del Mago
🏊 Swim the trio
Start at Portals Vells for an easy sandy entry, then cut across the headland paths to Platja del Rei and Caló del Mago for a quieter second dip.
🤿 Snorkel the rocky edges
The clearest water sits at the cove mouths. Stay inside swim buoys and avoid boat channels.
🧘 Pine-grove lounge
Set up under the trees for midday cool and move with the shifting shade.
🪵 Cave & quarry nooks
Along the cliffs you’ll see old quarry hollows and small sea-cave openings—nice for photos on calm days.
🍴 Where to Eat & Drink
On the main Portals Vells beach, the seasonal chiringuito covers cold drinks and simple plates. For a sit-down meal on the way back, we detour to Portals Nous or Puerto Portals; for a casual terrace, Magaluf and Santa Ponça are close.
🏨 Where to Stay (Close & Convenient)
| Stay Type | Example | Location |
| Resort bases | Classic beach hotels & pools | Magaluf / Santa Ponça |
| Boutique & marina scene | Dining and evening strolls | Puerto Portals / Portals Nous |
| City + coves combo | Old Town charm, easy day trips | Palma |
🌴 Lifestyle & Vibe
Laid-back and summery: families and couples in the main cove, quieter sunbathers and naturists at Caló del Mago. Music is low, sea is the star, and the pines keep everything pleasantly unpolished.
🗓️ Day Plan from Palma
| Time | Plan |
| 09:00 | Drive Ma-1 to the Portals Vells turn-off; park under the pines |
| 09:30 | First swim at Portals Vells; coffee at the chiringuito |
| 11:00 | Walk to Platja del Rei for snorkelling along the rocks |
| 12:30 | Siesta under the pines or move to Caló del Mago for a quieter dip |
| 15:30 | Late lunch around Portals Nous or Puerto Portals; back to Palma |
🦺 Safety & Accessibility
Paths between coves include steps and uneven rock; sturdy sandals help. Entries are sandy in the main bay; rock ledges elsewhere can be slippery.
Lifeguard coverage is seasonal—keep inside buoys, watch boat traffic, and check conditions before cliff scrambling.
❓ FAQ – Portals Vells & Caló del Mago
Is Caló del Mago naturist?
Yes. Naturism is long-established here; expect a relaxed, mixed crowd. Choose Portals Vells or Platja del Rei if you prefer a more conventional beach area.
Are there sunbeds and a beach bar?
At Portals Vells you’ll usually find seasonal sunbeds/parasols and a chiringuito. The smaller coves are largely bring-your-own-towel.
How crowded does it get in summer?
Busy by late morning in July–August. Early arrival or late-day swims keep it enjoyable.
Is parking easy?
Limited forest parking near the coves. It fills early on weekends; consider drop-off + park higher up.
Good for kids?
Yes in the main bay thanks to the sandy, gentle shelf. Keep an eye near rocky sections and paths between coves.
🔎 Live Beach & Water Conditions
Before you go, check flags, water quality and jellyfish alerts in our Balearic Government – Platges de Balears Guide.
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